(first posted 3 December 2018)
Well, this afternoon will see my first Middle Class Gin Review in quite some little while. I apologise for the lack of Middle Class Gin Reviews, however while my gin collection has grown since the last one, my whisky collection has grown by a larger margin and literally nobody is interested in whisky reviews. The lack will be atoned for now by the review of this Irish potato gin from the Muff Liquor Company. It doesn’t taste like potatoes, but then one wouldn’t expect it to.
It’s actually really rather amusing. I was tantalised by its orangeyness. Orange is definitely the stand-out flavour of Muff, rosemary being only a teasing glimpse on the finish. In a G&T, the Muff is not so much Brazillian as full Kojack; it is entirely smooth, almost to the point where it is overwhelmed by even a light tonic. I am not one to drown my gins, but even the smallest dash does not do this gin jusitce.
The Muff deserves something stiff to open it up. Something hard and thrusting to penetrate its soft and yielding warmth. That’s not to say that Muff doesn’t reward the tongue. The lips moisten as you close in, aromas piquing your senses even before you taste. The pleasure intensifies as you tease the subtlety of its flavour, gently coaxing the lighter botanicals towards a great mandarin climax. The best experience is not necessarily with something big – but it does needs to know how to work it. My next will be a Gibson made with Noilly Prat, however I would love to try it in a White Lady, where its smooth compliance will be tested against a zingy, dominant taste.
My Middle-Class meal choice to go along with it is a tricky one as the orangeyness would not, I imagine, go well with many things. If pressed, I would pair it with a terrine, following on from proscuitto and melon but still, very definitely, before the main course.
